MillieTmdx: January 2017

“COLOUR IS THE SKIN OF THE WORLD” Sonia Delaunay

Rave culture and fashion are heavily influenced by colour, in pattern/symbols(1), in bold line and in UV light. This essay analyses a variety of collections, artists and the underlying inspiration behind these sub-themes.

Ashish's Autumn/ Winter 2012 ‘Bollywouldn’t’ grunge collection focused on the combination of slogans(2) such as 'be happy', 'say no to drugs' and bright rainbow colours with clashing prints (e.g the smiley)(3). From the print and the use of the bold fluorescent colours used in this collection Ashish shows an obvious interest in the rave and festival scene(4). Rave Culture became visually identified by the yellow smiley face symbol. This iconic symbol for acid house, sets the scene for the raver. In previous analysis and research, it has been identified that many 80's ravers commonly twinned a smiley print top with fluorescent accessories and garments.

Ashish's Autumn Winter 2012 collection embraces the known 'smiley' face symbol. Researching its origins and what inspired its original creation, revealed that an artist, Harvey Ball, was the man behind this 'smiley' face(5). Ball created the yellow smiley face in 1963. Since then, this icon has been used in thousands of different variations, appearing on posters, garments, pop art and even home furnishings. Its meaning has evolved alongside developments in social and cultural values: from the optimistic message of a 1960s insurance company, to a commercialised logo, an ironic fashion statement, as seen in Ashish's A/W 12 and to Moschino's S/S 15(6) Collections.

Current celebrities that have worn the smiley on a t-shirt print are model Alessandro Ambrosia(7) and Selena Gomez(8). The smiley t-shirt was also featured by an actor in the series of Modern Family, where he, like in Ashish’s collection, is wearing a combination of rainbow print and the smiley(9). The smiley symbol has also recently made an appearance on a video clip(10) for the reopening of the much regarded current ravers nightclub, Fabric(11) in London. The smiley has also been recreated on the drug of choice for rave culture, the ecstasy pill.

Taking pills was a popular, common social interest in the height of rave culture, especially Ecstasy, which came in a variety of shades of rainbow colour. The documentary of E is for Ecstasy 1992(12) follows the lives of a small group of Ecstasy users and their experiences of the rave scene in the early 1990's. This programme seeks to determine individual motivation for Ecstasy use and provides discussion from medical experts and users regarding some of the possible harmful long term effects. It shows footage of the early rave scene including the vibrant lights that continuously flash throughout the night to add to the ‘maaaashed’ up feeling created by taking ecstasy. The Streets song ‘blinded by lights’ released in 2004 explores a ‘maaaashed’ up night after taking pills with lyrics such as “my eyes are rolling back” and “lights are blinding my eyes”.

The strobe lighting effects and use of rainbow colour at raves have been embraced and embodied into fashion collections. House of Holland’s Spring 2013 collection shows a blur of rainbow colour in a sky like print(13). Sonia Delaunay states “in the sky we had rediscovered the moving principle of any work of art: the light, and the motion of colour”. It is not just the colourful neon print that I relate to raver culture but also the fluorescent thick eyeliner and eyeshadow used on the models(14).

Icons such as music star Rita Ora have bought into not just this collection’s clothes but the whole rave culture/dress(15). She is wearing a bra let top with the two piece bright coloured coord with sunglasses and a powerful vibrant red lipstick.

House of Holland’s Spring 2013 collection’s colours and print bring clear alignment with the work of photographer Gareth McConnell. The vibrant primary colours seen in McConnell’s photography of the sunset / sunrise project raver culture(16). His photography work involves the use of colour and lighting. The piece of artwork contained in the print of House Of Hollands Spring 2013 collection stands out. The work Close Your Eyes, is a reworking of the accumulated archive of photographer Gareth McConnell. Close Your Eyes(17) projects kaleidoscopic imagery fused portraits he took of rave-goers in Ibiza with pictures he both shot and found. Another piece which grabbed my attention to the raver culture inspired in McConnell’s “Rainbow Error II”. It reminds me of the Street’s “Blinded by the lights” and seems to really capture the atmospheric feeling of the typical rave night. This is because the shot is not quite clear, it is blurred, just like the feeling of taking ecstasy and being “maaashed" (18).

It is not just the colour of fashion garments in raver inspired collections that capture one’s attention, but the whole look and theme. Jeremy Scott's Fall 2012 is a great example of this. Looking at this collection draws you straight to bouffant hairstyles of the models, containing the subtle hint of rainbow colours(19). This adds to the story of the collection, the garments and makes the theme of the collection even more evident. Jeremy Scott may have got his bouffant hair inspiration from singer icon Lady Ga Ga(20), known for her epic variety of shocking hair styles. Icons such as Nicki Minaj have not just bought into the colour and style of the clothing from this collection but the vibrancy and style of the ‘mushroom’ hairstyle(21).

Another collection that shows a fusion of colour is Missioni’s Spring Summer 2016 collection(22). It is not just the bold variety of coloured lines(23) on the garments that draw the attention of this collection, but the bold use of makeup. When researching raver makeup, it's clear that wearing bold vibrant primary colours of thick eyeliner across the eye lid is a prominent touch to raver fashion. The vibrant geometric prints(24) of this collection remind me of the work of artist Sonia Delaunay(25). An artist that turns her love for colour(26) and line(27) into fashion garment prints.

It is not just colour within the context of art and design that is relevant today but that in present, youth are forward thinking and fighting back against colour in the context of racism. Rosa Parks, an American civil activist suggested "racism is still with us, but it is up to us to prepare our children for what they have to meet, and hopefully, we shall overcome"(28). This quote from previous years has been put into action as, at present, youth are fighting back against skin colour and racism. What interests me about colour in the context of racism is that in the beginnings of the rave scene, people were unified by one thing alone, the music(29). After all the legendary singer Bob Marley did suggest he "believed that racism hatred and evil can be healed with music." (30) I support this. Furthermore DJ, Kaskade implies "as far as music culture goes, EDM/rave music is the one who will accept the kids on the outliers, the ones who get bullied, the ones who feel like they may not quite fit in."

Image 1: Smiley colourful light GIF

Image 2: Ashish's AW 12 Collection- smiley face printed skirt

Image 3: From Ashish's AW 12 Collection

Image 4: Ashish's AW 12 Collection- Combining the colourful rainbow print with smiley symbolism

Image 5: Artist Harvey Ball- Creator of the Smiley face symbol

Image 6: Moschino S/S 15 Collection

Image 7: Supermodel Alessandro Ambrosio’s wears Smiley t-shirt

Image 8: Selena Gomez wears smiley print tee

Image 9: Modern Family Series film footage featuring man wearing smiley top and raver rainbow coloured jacket and top ha.

10: Link to: Fabric Night Club Reopening Night ft smiley face

Image 11: Screenshot from link - ft smiley face symbol for Fabric Nghtclub

12: Link to E is for Ecstasy Documentary 1992

Image 13: Model wearing dreamy sky like galaxy print for House Of Hollands Spring 13 Collection.

Image 14: House of Holland Spring 2013- Model wearing sky like print with bright coloured eyeliner

Image 15: Rita Ora (Music Icon) wears H O H Tie Dye 2 Piece- festival vibes.

Image 16: McConells vibrant photography of skyline

Image 17: Gareth McConell Close Your Eyes 2013

Image 18: Gareth McConell Rainbow Error II

Image 19: Jeremy Scott Fall 2012 Collection featuring rainbow 'mushroom' style hair.

Image 20: Lady Ga Ga wore the same hairstyle as what was styled for Jeremy Scotts Fall 12 Collection in 2009. Maybe Jeremy took hair inspiration from this famous music icon for his collection three years later.